Zanzibar – Arabic Body, African Soul.

Zanzibar hotels

Zanzibar, otherwise known as the spice island is located off the coast of Tanzania because of course the island’s main export is spices. It’s quite a lush island due to its humid climate, and therefore has an exotic feel to it, mainly due to the thatched roofs, green vegetation and coconut trees.

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Mkokotoni, a vibrant and thriving fish marketplace was our first port of call. With abundant colourful marketplaces, offering a tapestry of colourful fruit and vegetables, interwoven with exotic fish caught fresh from the Indian ocean all combine together to create a symphonic kaleidoscope of colour. Pilau rice is the staple food, normally it’s cooked fused with spices and consumed with fish and / or meat. Our friendly tour guide said in order to remain healthy; people on the island eat G.O.M.B.S.: Green vegetables, Onions, Mushrooms, Beans and Seeds.  He also said cinnamon was a powerful spice.

Stone town, Zanzibar

September 21st thru to December 21st is rainy season on the island. Don’t worry too much about the mosquitoes however since there is 0.5% malaria rate on the island, down from 40% from over 10 years ago.  There are cobra snakes living in the wild in Zanzibar; however I did not get to see one, which on reflection is probably a good thing.

There are very few crimes committed on the island, most crimes are petty crimes, such as stealing neighbour’s crops so that to sell or eat. Tourist related crimes are virtually non existent. There are security check points in front of most of the hotels of course. I christened Zanzibar the island of smiles, due to the natural warmth of the people there and of course, their friendly personalities. The vast majority of which are always smiling, a wonderful sight to witness!

Zanzibar safety

Zanzibar was very wealthy years ago, thanks to the Sultan of Oman, who called the island his holiday home, but now not so much, unfortunately. It was made independent in 1964. There is a 4 day celebration of Swahili New Year union which takes place on the south of the island each year. In Zanzibar you can have up to 4 wives. The law states the man (husband) must treat all four of them equally and not show favouritism. In mainland Tanzania, a Masai tribal king can have more than 4 wives. Zanzibar is mostly a Muslim island.

Arabic Zanzibar

Freddie Mercury, the lead singer of Queen, hailed from Zanzibar. Alas, there is no statue in his honour, his fame faded due to the younger generation of Zanzibar not knowing about his great fame in other parts of the world.

Exchange rates are not competitive in hotels; therefore banks are the preferred choice to exchange money into local currency. US Dollars, UK Sterling, Euro, etc are accepted in markets and most shops. Prices in some hotels are in euro, for services and extra’s such as room service.

Good food

On the way to the amazing Breezes beach club, we drove through 3 KM rain forest of mango trees. We also drove past the Zanzibar Butterfly Centre which is ideally located in the mangrove rain forest. The butterfly has only a week to enjoy their freedom before they die. Monkeys too live in the forest. I also thought I saw what looked like a giant tortoise as our bus drove through the rain forest.

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‘Dala Dala’ is the local form of transport on the island of Zanzibar. A minibus, complete with both driver and conductor. These are privately operated and not state run, and provide a crucial service for the locals and tourists of an independent nature to get around the island.

Children walk barefoot, some adults too.  I saw a 4 – 5 year old girl playing with a tyre. There were 5 small boys playing with one toy car around a makeshift table. Their homes: mud huts with thatched roofs. The more ‘modern’ homes had concrete blocks with galvanised roofs with bars on the windows, no glass whatsoever. No street lights or cats eyes on the roads. Lots and lots of very young children playing in amongst skinny cows and flocks of hens. I saw a young child washing herself under a water pump in the open air, under the supervision of an adult guardian, most likely a family member. Sometimes I wonder if we in the western world are more disavantaged in some ways. Our kids – with the latest tech gadgets such as playstations and xboxes playing indoors with not much physical exercise and not much vitamin D from the sun.

We visited a former slave trading post on the island in a town simply called Stone Town and it was quite a sombre experience. It had echoes of Nazi concentration camps. In that I mean you could sense and imagine the way human beings treated other humans in such deplorable, inhumane and very cruel ways. The pain, torture and suffering of coloured slaves on a wholesale scale were very much evident. The manner in which people were simply ‘processed’ and segregated from their families in order to be shipped off the island to become slaves for another race was both disturbing and sickening. The primitive, cramped and filthy conditions in which the unfortunate slaves were housed like animals, in chains – a sight I will never forget.

History of slaves

I would like to see a recycling facility on the island which would recycle the many plastic bottles lying on the side of the roads. Due to the sunny climate on the island, people drink a lot of fluids in order to hydrate. The downside is the mountains of plastic, which could generate revenue and employment once a recycling centre is established and operational. An environmental educational awareness program for schools would be beneficial also.

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Our accommodation, Breezes Beach Club simply oozed style and character. It was very relaxing and tranquil. Four poster beds were the norm, rooms were furnished with the most exquisite furniture and lavish furnishings fit for a sultan! The main area’s and grounds of the resort had an elegant ambience which was both chic and sexy, ideal therefore for honeymooners, The cuisine was of course delectable, locally sourced fresh produce, prepared, cooked and presented in a way which would satisfy even the most demanding of palates.  Our host, the Dutch general manager was clearly a very professional operator with a high degree of attention to detail in hospitality.

Breezes Beach Club Zanzibar

We made our way onto Dar es- Salaam, the capital of Tanzania where I witnessed street sellers pedalling their synthetic wares to cars which were stuck in traffic jams formed like a weaving snake slowly choking the city with its toxic fumes from the many exhaust pipes. The traffic in Dar es- Salaam is so bad, each day we needed a police escort to take us to the first every Swahili Expo event S.I.T.E. otherwise we would have not made it on time.

police escort

Monica Gimono, sales manager from the Ledger Plaza, Bahari Beach just outside Dar es Salaam where we had a delicious lunch explained that sea food is so abundant in Dar es Salaam because of its costal location right on the Indian ocean. So much so, that in many restaurants in is cheaper to order lobster than pizza!

Ledger Plaza 2 995

While attending S.I.T.E. we stayed at the Sea Cliff Resort & Spa. It offered a colonial feel with somewhat of a business flair. The hotel was located right on the coast and offered beautiful and panoramic views across the Indian Ocean. The rooms were well appointed and offered good amities which added to a comfortable stay overall.

Dar es Salaam hotels

At S.I.T.E. which was Tanzania’s inaugural tourism event will be held annually for both inbound and outbound travel which is organised by Pure Grit Event management who also conduct INDABA, South Africa’s tourism event held annually in Durban. There are 3 natural wonders of Africa: namely Mount Kilimanjaro, Ngorogo Crater and of course the Serengeti. There is a strong focus on sustainability and conservation which I was very glad to hear. Dar es Salaam is a city from the legend of Arabian nights. There are 120 tribes in Tanzania. There was a strong sense of optimism for the future of Dar es Salaam. A place which over the sands of time has become a melting pot and a meeting of cultures with both Spanish and Portuguese influence entwined in the Swahili language.

Witch doctor

We were informed by the Presidents address that Zulu, Shona, Botswana – Swahili cultures brings us all together. Tourism accounts for 9% of the worlds GDP. Tourism figures account from 25 Million tourists travelling the globe in 1950 to 1.087 Billion in 2013. The President went on to say the continent of Africa in general lacks behind tourist growth. Africa receives 3% of the global tourist market, the Middle East 5%, while Europe gains the lions share at 52%. Infrastructure, marketing and investment are required. The media does not report positive news about Africa he added. In 1998 the American embassy was bombed in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania which still may have a lasting affect on tourism numbers, in particularly from the USA. Conflict, diseases, hunger and poverty get published and transmitted via TV, radio, print and the internet. People feared about coming to Africa because of Ebola, which thankfully seems under control.

The African continent is so big however, it covers such a vast space of land mass, having a continent of 54 Countries, with Tanzania alone has 31 providences means  you are probably closer to Ebola in some parts of Europe than many Countries in Africa itself.  We are not doing enough to tell our story said the Tanzanian President. We must tell our story and tell it loud, he added.

‘We should leverage the advancement of information and telecommunications. The tourism industry has become the largest in Tanzania with gold (which has fallen in price recently after steady gains) in second place. Issues such as visas, services, infrastructure and a harmonisation of taxes and fees should assist Tanzania’s tourism industry. The President went on to say to tell the good story of Tanzania will require the complete package. We must do more to reach out to tourists. You’re voice carries a lot of weight for mutual benefits he told the national and international delegates present. We must facilitate and not obstruct tourism and that people on the ground will drive the way forward’ the president added.

Serengeti wildlife

There are now forest and wildlife conservation initiatives taking place across Tanzania with a reduction also in poaching. There were 6 elephants killed per month in 2012 which is now down to 3 elephants killed in the last nine months. 22nd of September is national elephant day. There is however also poaching for meat. Snares have been set up in order for wild animals to be slaughtered for consumption.  Antelopes are now extinct in Tanzania. Elephants, Rhinos, Lions, Leopards are now the main priority to protect from vicious poachers.

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The Serengeti itself is a wonderful experience to behold which I shall feature in more depth at a later date. Beginning with the flight from Dar es Salaam to Arusha on a turboprop is like stepping back in time. The adventure begins the moment you board the Precision Air ATR 72 aircraft, you know you’re in for a real adventure of a lifetime!

Safaris in Tanzania

To step out onto the view point above Ngorongoro crater is like stepping out to a window of the African world, created by God. A sight on which memories will stay with you forever. As far as the eye can see, beautiful Mother Africa in all her glory, welcomes you into her very heart, the very heart of Africa, where nature displays it’s riches in the most glorious way imaginable. One of, if not the most beautiful of sights I have ever seen. I have had the good fortune to have travelled to over 80 countries and islands around this big world of ours, but I have yet to see anything as beautiful.

Ngorongoro

Fly Cruise Stay’s director, Declan Hughes flew to the Swahili International Tourism Expo on kind invitation from the Tanzanian Tourist Board in September, 2014. He flew from Dublin to Frankfurt with Lufthansa and onwards to Dar es Salaam via Addis Ababa on Ethopian Airlines Boeing 787-800 Dreamliner.

Pre Show itinerary (courtesy of Tanzanian Tourist Board):

Day 1: 27th Sep 2014: Arrival in Zanzibar

Meet and greet at Zanzibar International Airport followed by transfer to Breezes Beach Club for beach leisure and overnight stay

Day 2: 28th Sep 2014: Spice Tour with site inspection.

After breakfast we drove to Kizimbani for the spice tour. We explored the island and its hidden treasures at a relaxed pace.  Traveled deep into the interior to see the fragrant spice plantations. Discovered how pods, bark, buds and berries are harvested and dried. The intoxicating aromas of fresh cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg will delight the senses and stimulate appetites, so be sure to sample the sweet tropical fruits and zesty curries Zanzibar is famous for. This is the cheapest place to buy locally made perfumes, oils and spice rings.  After the tour we drove to Zanzibar North coast for lunch at Gemma and site inspection in 5 Hotels, La Gemma, Gold Zanzibar, Hideaway, Royal Zanzibar and Ras Nungwi. After sight inspection we enjoyed the sunset in the north, and drove back to Breezes Beach Club for Dinner and overnight stay.

Day 3: 29th Sep 2014: Stone Town Tour & Shopping

Relaxed on the beach. After lunch we drove to Stone Town for the tour and shopping. We experienced the city & the true culture of Zanzibar, visit the famous house of wonder, the old market where you can shop for various fruits and spices before paying a visit to the former slave market. This is the best day for shopping due to the fully loaded schedule. After the tour we drove to Breezes for dinner and overnight.

Day 4: 30th Sep 2014: Departure

No tour on this day, after taking our breakfast or lunch we drive directly to the Harbour to catch the Kilimanjaro IV Luxurious Boat back to Dar es Salaam.

Post Show itinerary (courtesy of Tanzanian Tourist Board, Zara Tours & Acacia Farm Lodge)

SATURDAY: 04/10/2014 Attend S!TE, Transfer to the Airport for flight to Arusha, Pick up at the Airport by Zara Tours, Dinner and Overnight at Ngorongoro wild camp

SUNDAY: 05/10/2014 Early breakfast, Depart for Serengeti, Lunch, Game Drive, Overnight at Serengeti Wildebeest camp

MONDAY: 06/10/2014 Breakfast, Depart for Ngorongoro crater Tour lunch, Overnight and Dinner at Acacia Farm Lodge Hotel

TUESDAY: 07/10/2014 Early Breakfast, Depart for Arusha with packed lunch, Drop at Kilimanjaro Airport

Top Travel Tips for Tanzania (Courtesy of Pure Grit Event Management).

1/ MALARIA

We strongly recommend that buyers need to take precautions against MALARIA. Please consult your physician before you travel for advice on precautions against MALARIA. The best ways for you to avoid getting sick from MALARIA are:

Taking a prescription antimalarial drug, Using insect repellent and wearing long pants and sleeves to prevent mosquito bites, Sleeping in air-conditioned or well-screened rooms or using bed nets. Please consult with your physician for recommendations regarding all inoculations/immunizations. To maximize the benefit of inoculations/ immunizations we suggest you see a health-care provider at least 4–6 weeks before your trip to allow time for your vaccines to take effect.

2/ VACCINATIONS

Yellow fever: We strongly recommend that all buyers get their Yellow Fever vaccination. Be sure to check the yellow fever requirements for countries you will be visiting after Tanzania as they may require proof of vaccination as well.

3/ CREDIT CARD & CURRENCY

The Tanzanian unit of currency is the Tanzanian Shilling – TZS or TSHS 1.00 TZS.

1.00 USD = 1.636.50 TZS (As of March 2014) Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted. American Express – not so much! US dollars are widely accepted – however bills printed in and/or prior to 2006 are not! High denomination bills ($100 and $50 mainly) can also be a problem so take a stash of ones and fives and tens just to be on the safe side.

Traveller’s checks are NOT accepted as a method of payment in TANZANIA.

4/ CLIMATE

TANZANIA has a tropical climate throughout the year. During the long rains which run from March through May the coastal areas tend to be very warm and very humid. The short rains run from November through January. Coolest months: June through October. Warmest months: December through March.

5/ TIME ZONE

Local time in TANZANIA is GMT +3 Example: If it is 9PM IN DAR-ES-SALAAM then it is 3PM the same day in NEW YORK!

6/ LANGUAGE SPOKEN

Swahili and English are the national languages of TANZANIA.

7/ PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT

Band aids, Antiseptic cream, Pain tablets, Heartburn relief, Eye drops, Insect repellent, Itch spray for bug bites, Sunscreen, Hand sanitizer, Purse size Kleenex packets, Any prescription medications that you rely on, on a daily basis.

8/ PHOTOGRAPHY

You are going to a photographer’s paradise wherever you go in Africa so do take plenty of memory cards to record your trip. They will not be readily available everywhere you go. So to avoid disappointment take a lot with you as well as spare batteries for flashes.

Top Ten Tanzanian Cuisine. (Courtesy of BuzzKenya.com)

Tilapia with ugali. Tilapia is a fish native to Lake Victoria. It is usually served with Ugali, a white stiff dough made with maize meal. This dish is usually accompanied with side dishes of braised spinach and onion.

Pilau. Pilau is originally a West Indian dish but is widely prepared on the coast of Tanzania. Served mainly at ceremonies, Pilau is a spicy rice dish usually prepared with poultry, beef or fish. Pilau is accompanied by a side dish of finely chopped tomato, onion and chilli.

Nyama Choma. Nyama Choma is predominantly an East African grilled meat dish. It is made from freshly slaughtered goat or chicken that is grilled on an open coal re. Side dishes include, Ugali and grilled Bananas.

Chapatti Bread. Tanzanian chapatti is very similar to roti made traditionally by Indian people, chapatti is popular amongst Swahili speaking Tanzanians. Chapatti is made to accompany most dishes and is an alternative to bread, rice and ugali.

Ndizi Kaanga. Ndizi Kaanga is a traditional Tanzanian dish which consists of pan fried or grilled green bananas/plantains.

Supu Ya Ndizi. Traditional plantain/banana soup best served as a warm starter to any meal. Supu Ya Ndizi is made my grinding Banana/plantain into a paste and combining with chicken stock, seasoned with salt and pepper.

Mchemsho (Trouper). Mchemsho is a traditional Northern Tanzanian dish. It includes ingredients such as spices, carrots, peppers, egg plant, potato, onion, green beans and cabbage. It is either made using chicken or fish. Mchemcho is expensive to make in comparison to other traditional Tanzanian dishes and is therefore mot made often.

Wali na Maharage. Wali na Maharage is a spice filled typical East African dish of beans and rice. The dish is accompanied by a side dish of fish, vegetables or meat. Spices typically used consist of cinnamon, cardamom, cumin seeds, cloves, salt and pepper.

Wali wa Nazi. Wali wa Nazi is a popular Tanzanian dish made with rice and coconut milk. It is traditionally found on along the coast and a firm favourite among the Swahili community. Wali wa Nazi is served with chicken, meat, curry or fish.

Ndizi Nyama. Ndizi Nyama is another delicious Tanzanian dish of stewed vegetables such as carrots, onions, sweet pepper and tomato, cooked with plantain/banana. Meat or fish can be added to the dish and it is usually served with a side portion of rice or ugali.

Six Best restaurants to Visit in Tanzania

  1. Ngorongoro Crater Lodge Restaurant – Arusha. Pan-African Dishes
  2. Ngalawa Seafront Restaurant – Dar es Salaam. Seafood from around the world
  3. The Tower Top Restaurant – Zanzibar. Seafood and Chicken
  4. La Taverna – Zanzibar. Italian Bistro
  5. Akemi Revolving Restaurant – Dar es Salaam. Fine Dining
  6. The Rock Restaurant –Zanzibar. Seafood